Death's Head Cockroaches - Blaberus craniifer “University of California, Riverside”

Disclaimer: I can only attest to how the species I keep respond under the conditions I keep them. Even the best care under a certain set of parameters may be met with failure under others.

For any questions or to mention anything I have wrong or have missed, email me at rockinroachesandmore@gmail.com!

Summary

A famous species for obvious reasons, the Death's Head is a very handsome - and spooky! - roach. As an enjoyer of the spooky season myself, that alone is more than enough to endear me to this roach, but there's more to this lovely species than that. Though slow to breed - a little frighteningly, when I first acquired my colony, taking several months past the appearance of the first adults for me to notice nymphs. This may be in part, however, due to the nymph's classic Blaberidae habit of staying burrowed in the substrate except to eat. The adults are much more inclined to let themselves be admired, perching on egg flats, bark, or branches positioned above the substrate - possibly to avoid the ravenous nymphs! This species is fairly calm to handle, but makes it very clear they do not appreciate it. Overall an easy species to keep, and quick enough to multiply once the ball gets rolling, though the nymphs take a long time to grow to adulthood.

Feeding

All my roaches are fed the same, but the Death's Head is only slightly less voracious than, for example, the famous appetites of the Six-Spotted and Florida Skunk roaches. The nymphs in particular are fascinating to watch emerge in force almost immediately from the substrate to raze their apple slices to the ground. Mine do well on a steady diet of oranges, apples, and cut-up whole carrots, though they often as not leave the carrots in favor of the fruit. I have also successfully fed them watermelon and grapes. This is the only species I keep that will occasionally eat a strawberry, if offered. In addition to a diet composed predominantly of fruits and vegetables, they require some form of protein, given based on the size of the colony and about twice a week. Mine are given cat food, but I imagine any sort of kibble would go over well, as well as fish food. I would not suggest any kind of raw or cooked meat, fish, or shellfish, though only because of the inevitable smell.

Environment

The Death's Head roach does not appear to mind room temperature, though they do very well with added heat. The room I keep mine in is 80°F (26.7°C), with an approx. humidity of 60%. The species reportedly prefers 70°-85°F, but can withstand short experiences above that (as evidenced by an accidental night at 90°F). Any temperature below optimal will cause a decline in growth rate and activity of the colony, and may result in an increase in mortality. Some keepers opt to provide their roaches with secondary heat sources, preferably a weak heat mat stuck to the side of the enclosure, NOT a heat lamp (too much heat, and they dislike the light) or too strong a source.

This species, similarly to the Six-Spotted roach, tolerates conditions damper than bone-dry, and doesn't seem to mind either way, particularly if they are consistently fed. Ensuring the colony always has some food with a high water content (oranges, apples, watermelon, grapes, zucchini) will be entirely sufficient, if humidity is kept high enough (60% works well for me, with minimal poor molts).

Light is a non-issue for this species. They don't require - or want - additional sources beyond a room light, though they don't seem to mind indirect sunlight from a window. Ensure the enclosure is never in direct sunlight!

Enclosure

This species seems to tolerate crowding, and starter colonies of 6-12 roaches can be kept in a regular 10-gallon glass tank until the adult begin to exhibit nibble marks on the ends of their wings, though this point depends almost entirely on the surface area of the hides they are given. Crowding does not seem to suppress breeding. They may also be kept just as easily in a Rubbermaid bin, or any largeish plastic container of a similar size, though that's not as pretty. A lid is necessary, as this species can technically fly (or flutter short distances, mostly), though it very rarely does. As substrate, the options are flexible. If cost is an issue, the roaches will do well on regular outdoors soil, though I strongly suggest laying it out in a 1in thick layer and baking it at around 400°F for 20 minutes, or until totally dry, first, to prevent taking home unwanted hitchhikers or disease. I also strongly suggest you take extreme care to select soil that has not had fertilizer, insecticide, or any strong chemical applied, as the roaches, often detrivores in the wild, will nibble on most anything you put in their tank, including the substrate. Otherwise, coconut coir or (if the only option, for it's unsustainably harvested) peat moss will hold moisture and work well. Just dampen it first, to prevent particulate matter from covering everything (and making you sneeze!) when you put it in the tank.

Once you have your substrate, it's on to the décor. Egg flats will work well, if cost is an issue. If it's an option, however, I suggest large flat pieces of bark and sturdy twigs: these keep humidity well in the lower layers, and this species enjoys being able to hide. It doesn't need to be cork bark, just something appropriately sized you find outside and either forget in the back of a closet for a few months to dry out, or send through the oven at the aforementioned 400°F for 20min or so. The more the better, and a 10-gallon tank can hold more than you think.

In addition to the purely utilitarian purpose of giving the roaches a hide, the contents of the tank can make it nice to look at, too. A well-set up roach tank full of handsome little guys is simply nice to look at. To this purpose, I often use plastic fake plants. I get them more than half-off at Michael's seasonally, and they really add something. Before putting them in the tank, always wash them thoroughly. I use Dawn dish soap and warm water, let them soak for a while, then give them a good scrub, let 'em dry, and throw them in the tank to arrange. Leaflitter is the easiest means to ensure the nymphs have somewhere humid to hide out, and can be gathered in most places from the outdoors. Hardwood leaves, such as oak, are preferred, but maple, ginkgo and the like will do.

There are two important notes about this species: first, the nymphs will spend most of their time beneath the substrate. They must be given at least three inches of substrate to burrow in! Second, and most importantly, for the nymphs to molt into adults, some vertical surface they can hang off of must be provided. This can be a textured piece of egg flat, cardboard, or, ideally, a large flat piece of bark perpendicular to the bottom of the tank.

Other Information

  • Adult size is about 2.35in.
  • Ovoviviparous
  • Winged!
  • Climbs poorly.

An adult Death's Head roach. Note the markings on the pronotum - a fanged Jack-O-Lantern grin!

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